Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Go West Young Man

Planning a trip is sort of like exploring from inside. The internet is full of pictures and stories of far away places that cause one's heart to begin racing. For a long time, the lure of the mountains has inspired my travels; from the winter climbs in Colorado's Rockies, to week long expeditions among the mighty Andes in South America. I've spent hours browsing Google Maps and clicking through picture after picture on Summitpost.com, slowly forming distant plans in my head.

This trip to Wyoming is no exception. When I first heard that my good friend and climbing partner, Mike, was going to be in Wyoming without me, I knew that wouldn't do. Along the western edge of the state, the Teton range reins over Jackson Hole Valley, rising over 7000 ft over the land below. At 13,775 ft, Grand Teton is one of a few ultra-prominent peaks in the U.S. and the namesake of Grand Teton National Park. This park has been at the top of my list for some time and I knew that I wanted to join Mike and see this famous mountain range.



The logistics of a trip have several determining factors, the most important one being: what are we going to do? A backpacking trip would take the least amount of gear, I could probably hitchhike to Jackson with just a backpack. Maybe we wanted to do a bicycle tour and rent bikes? But what about climbing? Mike and I have trekked far higher during our trips to the Andes and we have been avid rock climbers for years, however, we had never combined the two. An alpine climb requires a massive amount of knowledge of many topics. From knowing how to predict the weather to to properly using an ice axe, many of these were skills that Mike and I had learned over the years. But most of all, we learned how to do more with less. At one point or another we would find ourselves on steep, technical terrain with no ropes. We have climbed this way many times, for the simple reasons that we could either not afford the gear, or it was too heavy to carry the way we were traveling. The gear needed to climb true technical routes would cost around $2000, brand new. Luckily, for this trip, we were able to afford some essentials, and borrow the rest. Currently we have one other person who is coming along, although we would like to round it out at four. Alden will need some crampon and ice axe instruction, but she it proficient with ropes and comfortable around heights.

With the resources for a proper alpine climb, I started to research routes. Grand Teton was foremost on my list for obvious reasons. But not only was it the highest and best known peak, it also had a very manageable route. The Owen-Spalding route is rated a paltry 5.4, and if it were not for the magnitude of the distances and the sheer exposure, it would not offer us much of a challenge at all. However, at such an altitude, I was not worried about not being challenged enough. The early season conditions would still be icy in spots, requiring some low grade, mixed climbing and the route finding would still be challenging. There was one downside to such a famous peak. Crowds. The Owen-Spalding route is one of the most popular routes up a popular mountain. A climb so early in the season would of course make it better, but we are not expecting an isolated trip.

This was when I stumbled across the Wind River Range.


A mere 3 hours from Jackson, WY, the Winds have a reputation of world class mountaineering in an isolated area that sees far fewer people than the Tetons. I was shocked that I had never heard of these mountains before as I read about the unspoiled beauty. Within this mighty range is Gannet Peak, the highest point in Wyoming at 13,804 ft. This 40+ mile trek would include glacier crossings and true expeditionary travel and it quickly made it's way onto my list.

The best part about our style of travel is that all of these plans are tentative. If we find something we want to do more, plans can change. The beauty of being flexible means we always have a good time, not matter how plans change. Generally, I fill my head with as many possibilities as I can, so we always have a plan b.

All this gear is another matter. I'm sure glad we are driving and I don't have to haul this around an airport.

2 comments:

  1. Thankful for Nick Logel and his words. Inspired to start my own blog someday. Thanks, Nick.
    - Andrew

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